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Ko var sieviete 80

Sieviete parlamentā var atļauties pārstāt ar apģērbu svinēt racionalitāti. Un garlaikot.

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Latvija svinēja svētkus. Salutēja un sadziedājās. Aizsardzības ministrijas inscenētās un saorganizētās, bet mediju neatslābstoši uzbudinātās darbības dēļ sabiedrība vairāk nekā citus gadus mēteļu kreisos atlokus rotāja ar sarkani-balti-sarkanām lentītēm. Tās Rīgas ielās dalīja par brīvu. Un tas bija patriotisms uz izriestas krūts. Kad pēdējoreiz esat saņēmuši pozitīvisma poti? Bonusā nāk diktores smaids. Šļirks!



Karodziņa efekts

Svētku uzrunā 18. novembrī Latvijas Valsts prezidents pie Brīvības pieminekļa publiski vaicāja, kā vien tikai Valdis Zatlers publiski māk vaicāt: „Kas ir patriotisms?” Un viedi turpināja, ka „patriotisms ir mūsu piederības sajūta, atbildība un sadarbība.”

Kā gan citādāk lai parāda savu atdevību, piederību un mīlestību pret valsti savu un citu acīs, kā vien publiski to izrādot? Jo vizuālā informācija mēdz būt tā, kas atšķir mūs no citiem vai padara tuvākus un saprotamākus tiem, ar kuriem mēs sevi vēlamies identificēt.

Valdis Zatlers izskatījās labi. Viņa apģērbs un monumentālā stāja gandrīz kā tautas vēlētam prezidentam runāja pati par sevi, nepasakot neko lieku. Nepasakot gandrīz neko. Jau 11. novembrī, kad Latvijā tika atzīmēta Lāčplēša diena, stāvot brīvības simbola pakājē, prezidents izskatījās episks un satraucies. Rūpes, kuras vīdēja sejā, izskatā bija papildinātas ar labās proporcijās ieturētu mēteli un sulīgi sarkanu kaklautu, kaut, manuprāt, visa modes intriga slēpās mēteļa piedurknēs. Aizsardzības ministrs Artis Pabriks (Vienotība) prezidenta silueta fonā izskatījās „pārāk” — pārāk glancēts, ar pārāk laminētu spīdumu uz kaklsaites, pārāk kā no Burberry reklāmlapas, pārāk anglisks, pat rotājies tuvākos toņos Latvijas karogkrāsām nekā Zatlers. Abu kungu virsdrēbes dekorēja patriotisma lentītes.

Karodziņu efekts pie apģērba atsauc atmiņā aizraujošās 2008. gada ASV prezidenta vēlēšanas un dienas, kad ziņu moderatori, satracināti vēlētāji un saērcināti politiskie oponenti skaldīja un apšaubīja Baraka Huseina Obamas patriotismu — ik reizi, kad Ilinoisas senatoram pie žaketes atloka nebija piesprausts karodziņš. Presē tās ir ieguvušas nosaukumu “Patriotisma debates.”

„Dažreiz es nēsāju kaklasaiti, dažreiz — ne. Dažreiz es nēsāju karoga nozīmīti, dažreiz — ne. Dažreiz man gribas burgeru un alu. Dažreiz steiku un glāzi vīna,” tā vēsā mierā nākamais ASV prezidens skaidroja savu izvēli NBC Nightly News. Priekšvēlēšanu cīņu izskaņā Obama biežāk bija redzams, rotājies ar nozīmītēm, nekā bez tām. Mācība bija gūta.



Kā Banderass. Kā nakts. Ar brošu

Saeimā no simts gudrajām galvām tikai divdesmit viena pieder sievietēm, no kurām 2/3 ir ievēlētas parlamentā no Vienotības saraksta. No otras lielākās Saeimā pārstāvētās frakcijas Saskaņas centra “daiļo dzimumu” pārstāv... apaļa nulle. „Harmoniju” parlamentā nepārstāv neviena sieviete. Salīdzinājumam — ASV Senātā 17 no 100 krēsliem ieņem sievietes.

„Tai sievietei, kura nepalīdz citai sievietei, ellē ir ierādīta speciāla vieta,” ir sacījusi Madlēna Olbraita (Madeleine Albright). Bet, kamēr mēs pārdomājam kam, kur, kas ellē ierādīts, iemetīsim aci Saeimā.

Parlamenta svinīgajā sēdē patriotisms (bez jau minētajām lentītēm) deputātiem izpaudās šlipsēs, kuras, protams, dominēja Latvijas karoga sarkanajā krāsā. (Visā Saeimas sēžu zālē tika piefiksēts arī viens tumši sarkans tauriņš.) Premjera Valda Dombrovska (Vienotība) sarkano kaklasaiti rotāja baltas diagonālas līnijas. Līdzīgi — Edgaram Zalānam (PLL) un Ainaram Latkovskam (Vienotība). Bet par popkultūras klātbūtni šajā 100 gudro galvu metienā bija parūpējies Imants Parādnieks (VL!-TB/LNNK). Skatoties uz deputāta cieši uz aizmuguri atglaustajiem matiem, prātā nāca Antonio Banderass iekš Spiegu Bērniem 2: Zudušo sapņu salas.

Ja ne sapņi, tad ilūzijas par tautas kalpu smalkajām modes sajūtām zuda, kad TV kameras slīdēja, rādot politiķus dzīvā portretējumā. Lielākajai daļai no cienījamajām deputātēm mugurā bija melnas žaketes un balti krekli vai blūzes tāpat kā vīriešiem. Tik to pogājums un nēsājums atšķīrās un dizains variēja. Linda Mūrniece (Vienotība) sēdēja Saeimā baltā blūzē ar augsto krāgu, kuras lacītes daļa veidota no ielocēm. Iveta Grigule (ZZS) un Janīna Kursīte-Pakule (Vienotība) — baltās kreklblūzēs, kuras diskrēti bija atvērtas vai atpogātas, it kā spējš karstums vai brīze zāli bangotu. Inese Laizāne (VL!-TB/LNNK) bija vienīgā, kas ģērbusies riversā, proti, baltā žaketē, kuras aizdares un apakšmala ir nostrādātas ar kontrastējoši melnu audumu. Bet tā bija Ilze Vergina (Vienotība), kura Saeimā bija ieradusies visvisvīrišķīgākajā paskatā. Viņas balto krekla aizdari slēpa melna kaklasaite, uz kuras mezgla bija piesprausta zaļa broša apaļā formā. Vienīgā (fiksētā) ar krāsu smalkumiem un sievišķīgumu bija parlamenta priekšsēdētāja Solvita Āboltiņa (Vienotība). Kā nakts — ar tumši zilu, tvīdīgu žaketi, kas kontrastēja ar spilgti vēsi sarkanajiem parlamentārietes matiem, ar labu, pat augstvērtīgu un nepārkrāsotu grimu un brošu ar trim jūras zvaigžņu formām pie žaketes.



Le Smoking — vienlīdzības uzvara

Vai tā ir līdzvērtība vai arī neizlekšana no vīriešu dominējošā daudzuma un saplūšana ar kopējo masu, kas valsts svētkos Saeimas namā uzkrītoši dominēja? Vai varbūt tā ir Latvijas lietišķā sieviete? Sieviete — politiķe? Ir vērts par to drusku padomāt.

Diez vai nelaiķim Īvam Senlorānam (Yves Saint Laurent), kurš pirms 45 gadiem brīvo pasaules daļu šokēja ar savā modes namā darināto melno vakara bikškostīmu Le Smoking, būtu daudz ko teikt. Tik to, ka toreiz tā bija liela sensācija un uzdrīkstēšanās. Ņujorkas labākajos restorānos kā La Côte Basque nevarēja iekšā tikt, ja sievietei kājās bija bikses. Bet mēģinājumi, protams, bija. Ir vērts pārfrāzēt (stila labad) modes vēsturnieces Alises Revstornas (Alice Rawsthorn) 2004.gada martā rakstīto eseju par šo franču modes metru amerikāņu modes žurnālam Vogue. „Kad augstāko aprindu dāma — Nana Kempnere (Nan Kempner) devās maltītē uz restorānu, ģērbusies Le Smoking, viņa netika tur ielaista. Viņai pie ieejas tika paziņots, ka sieviete biksēs ir līdzvērtīga vīrietim bez kaklasaites. Vai Nana Kempnere devās prom? Nē, viņa novilka bikses un iesoļoja restorānā vienā vienīgā žaketē.” Sievietes kopš tā laika vienlīdzības vārdā ir izcīnījušas emancipācijas un daudzas citas cīņas un radījušas feminisma kustības (un lauku grāmatu klubiņus, ja jums tā tīk), lai šodien sieviete biksēs (un šlipsē) varētu sēdēt Saeimas svinīgajā sēdē, kuru kā jau publisku pasākumu televīzijas translē tiešraidē.

Mode ir ne tikai pielikusi savu roku, lai palīdzētu atbrīvot sievieti no vīriešu pasaulē tai ierādītās vietas, bet arī nemitīgi atgādina par sevi, kratot dūri, kad kāda to mēģina ignorēt.



Nodevīgā krūšu bedrīte

Ja kādai politiķei ir bijušas trauksmainas un neērtas attiecības ar modes industriju, tad tā ir Hilarija R. Klintone. Kādā 2007 .gada vasaras dienā senatore Klintone[1] Kongresā[2] runāja par augstāko izglītību un tās izmaksām. Runa vainagojās ar The Washington Post modes redaktores, ar Puliceru prēmētas kritiķes Robinas Givonas (Robin Givhan) 746 vārdos paustām pārdomām par televīzijas kamerās nepiedodami un neaizmirstami iemūžināto Klintones krūšu bedrīti. Modes kritiķe avīzē prātoja, ka „šis atgadījums vairāk atgādina vīrieti, kurš ir pieķerts ar neaizvērtu bikšu priekšu.” Un secināja: „Demonstrēt krūšu bedrīti vietā, kur nav kokteiļu un uzkožamo, ir provokācija.”

Pirmsvēlēšanu cīņu laikā ar Obamu par ceļazīmi uz prezidenta amata kandidatūru no ASV Demokrātu partijas Klintone, (nu jau) baidoties izskatīties pārāk „sievišķīgi”, noraidīja iespēju ar savu klātbūtni uzrunāt žurnālā Vogue lasītājas (un savas vēlētājas) caur Annijas Leibovicas objektīvu[3]. Tas izsauca Annai Vintūrai (Anna Wintour) negantas dusmas, kuras summējās vienā ellīgā redaktores slejā. „Priekšstats, ka modernai sievietei ir jāizskatās vīrišķīgi, lai viņu ņemtu par pilnu, tai tiecoties pēc varas, ir atklāti mulsinoši. Kā mūsu valsts līdz tam ir nonākusi! Šī ir Amerika, nevis Saūda Arābija,” tā rakstīja Vintūra.

Šogad, pašās augusta beigās, lieliskā modes kritiķe Robina Givona atkal pievērsa savu skatienu nu jau ASV valsts sekretāres amatā esošajai Klintonei. Par pārdomu objektu bija kļuvuši viņas garumā atlaistie un ataudzētie mati, jo parasti un pierasti ir, ka vecākas sievietes nēsā un uztur īsus matu griezumus. Šoreiz Hilarija R. Klintone izpelnījās uzslavu.



Valsts vizītkartes, atklātnes, namamātes

Politiķes gluži kā rokzvaigznes un Holivudas dīvas — kortnijas lovas un vinonas raideres — mēdz būt dizaineru un stilistu uzmanītas. Gan Sāru Peilinu un Vairu Vīķi-Freibergu, gan tādas pirmās lēdijas kā Mišelu Obamu, Karlu Bruni un nelaiķa Žaklīnu Kenediju Onasis varētu pieskaitīt kategorijai, kas ar apģērbu vēlas pateikt kaut ko jaunu vai ģenerēt idejas un stimulēt vietējo modes industriju. Viņām rūp savs ārējais izskats un izkoptais veidols būt par valsts vizītkartēm, atklātnēm, namamātēm (un, kad notecējis termiņš, parādīties biezās bilžu grāmatās uz kafijas galdiņiem un kuģniecību un vēstures muzeju sienām eksponētās izstādēs). Citām tas izdodas labāk, citām — nē. (Parasti — līdz brīdim, kad presē atkal ir nodrukāts izšķērdīgs un dārgs iepirkšanās čeks. Sensācija! Mode nemaksā lēti.)

Vēl ir citas politiķes kā Nensija Pelosi un Angela Merkele, kuras bauda lielāku mediju konfidencialitāti, kad tiek vērtēts un apspriests (vai arī neapspriests) viņu publiskais paskats. Nereti šīs politiķes ar savām darbībām un vizuālo izteiksmi ir spējušas atstāt neuzkrītošu intrigu, nezaudējot ne galvu, ne prātu modes priekšā. Piemēram, neviena cita politikā piespraudes nenēsā tā, kā tās valkā/(-ja) sieviete ar labi ģērbtu prātu — Madlēna Olbraita. Kā ziņo The New York Times, vārds “broša” viņai liekas pārāk pretenciozs, tāpēc Olbraita dod priekšroku vārdam “rotadata”. Kapitolijs, amors, čūska, dūja, ērglis — tie visi iegūst nozīmi vai kontekstu, kad šīs dārgās garastāvokļu piespraudes nonāk uz bijušās ASV valsts sekre tāres (Klintona ērā) lietišķā kostīma žaketes. Tās vienmēr kaut ko simbolizē.[4]



Neaprobežojas ar uzvalkiem un kaklasaitēm

Politiķi ir vēlētas personas un viņu uzstāšanās sabiedrībā un medijos tiek apspriestas un vērtētas. Sievietes politiķes par savu izskatu vienmēr dabon vairāk preses uzmanības un kritikas nekā viņu kolēģi vīrieši. Ja vīrietim pietiek vien noskūties, noziepēties un ar tīrām padusēm un tīru sirdsapziņu, t.i., baltu kreklu atnākt uz Saeimas svinīgo sēdi, tad pret politiķēm mēdz pielietot dubultstandartus, jo viņas 21. gadsimtā var atļauties daudz vairāk. Sieviešu garderobe nesākas, nebeidzas un neaprobežojas ar pāris uzvalkiem, pāris labi sagludinātiem krekliem un duci Vindzora mezglos sasietām kaklasaitēm.

Latvijā, kuru savā laikā ir vadījusi sieviete un kur Saeimas priekšsēdētāja postenī ir bijušas un arī pašreiz ir sievietes, un kur šogad pirmā, kas valsts proklamēšanas 92. gadadienai veltītajā militārajā parādē soļoja visiem pa priekšu, bija sieviete, vara nav tikai vīriešu pārvaldīts ekskluzīvs īpašums. Sievietes, kā redzams, tiek pie varas un teikšanas. Un laikā, kad ir tik daudz pašmāju un ārzemju politiķu — ikonu, no kuru kļūdām un veiksmēm varētu šo to mācīties. Sieviete parlamentā var atļauties ar apģērbu pārstāt svinēt racionalitāti. Un garlaikot.

_____________________

[1] Klintone ASV Senātā bija ievēlēta no Ņujorkas štata.

[2] Tikai no pagājušajā gadsimta deviņdesmito gadu sākuma sievietēm ASV Senātā ir atļauts ierasties biksēs.

[3] 1998.gadā pēc Monikas Levinskas seksa skandāla Hilarija R. Klintone vēl kā ASV pirmā lēdija Oskara de la Rentas kleitā krāšņoja žurnāla Vogue vāku.

[4] 2009.gadā 200 Olbraitas brošas un piespraudes tika izstādītas Ņujorkas Mākslas un Dizaina muzeja Tiffany & Co galerijā zem nosaukuma Read My Pins: The Madeleine Albright Collection. http://collections.madmuseum.org/code/..

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